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Notes on change, skin, and the journey to your truest self.

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Damaged Skin Barrier: Spot the Signs!
Apr 25, 2025

Is Your Skin Barrier Damaged? Signs & Solutions

This article helps you identify a damaged skin barrier by outlining key symptoms like redness, flakiness, and irritation. Learn to recognize these signs and understand the importance of a healthy skin barrier for overall skin health. Discover practical solutions to restore and protect your skin's natural defense.

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Vitamin C and Acne: Why It Might Be Making Things Worse

Published at: Apr 24, 2025

Mistake #1: Applying Vitamin C on Active Acne

Applying Vitamin C on Active Acne

Many believe that vitamin C can directly combat acne, but this isn't always the case. Applying vitamin C to skin with active breakouts can actually exacerbate the problem. While vitamin C is not known to cause acne, those with acne-prone skin sometimes experience increased breakouts after use.

Why Vitamin C Might Not Be Ideal for Active Acne

Vitamin C’s primary role is to brighten the skin, even skin tone, and provide antioxidant protection. It doesn’t directly address the underlying causes of acne, like bacteria and inflammation.

The Correct Approach: Treat Acne First

If you're battling active acne, prioritize treating the breakouts first. Ingredients like:

  • Azelaic acid: Helps reduce inflammation and bacterial growth.
  • Adapalene: A retinoid that unclogs pores.
  • Retinol: Another retinoid option for preventing clogged pores.
  • Benzoyl peroxide: Kills acne-causing bacteria.

Once your acne is under control, you can introduce vitamin C into your routine to address any residual hyperpigmentation and brighten the skin. Consider starting with a lower concentration formula to see how your skin reacts. For acne-prone skin, look for vitamin C formulations with Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate, which is believed to be less irritating.

Mistake #2: Using Too High a Concentration of Vitamin C

High Concentration of Vitamin C

More isn’t always better, especially when it comes to skincare. Using a vitamin C serum with a very high concentration, such as 20%, can irritate the skin, especially if you're new to the ingredient.

The Risks of High Concentrations

High concentrations of vitamin C can lead to:

  • Redness and irritation: Your skin may become red, itchy, and inflamed.
  • Dryness and flakiness: The serum may strip the skin of its natural moisture.
  • Increased sensitivity to sunlight: Vitamin C can make your skin more susceptible to sun damage, even with sunscreen.

Start Low and Go Slow: Optimal Concentrations

For beginners, start with a lower concentration, between 5% and 10%. This allows your skin to gradually adjust to the ingredient without experiencing harsh side effects. 10% is often a good starting point for most skin types. You can always increase the concentration later if your skin tolerates it well. The goal is to provide benefits without overwhelming your skin.

Mistake #3: Expecting Vitamin C to Correct Melasma Alone

Melasma Skin Condition

Melasma, characterized by brown patches on the cheeks, nose, forehead, and upper lip, is a complex skin condition that often requires a multi-pronged approach. While vitamin C can contribute to lightening and even skin tone, it’s typically not a solo solution for melasma.

The Limitations of Vitamin C for Melasma

Vitamin C's brightening properties can help fade existing hyperpigmentation, including the dark spots associated with melasma. However, it cannot address the underlying hormonal factors or UV exposure that often trigger and maintain melasma.

The Holistic Approach to Treating Melasma

While vitamin C alone may not eliminate melasma, it's a great maintenance tool after prescription based treatment. A more comprehensive approach involves:

  • Prescription medications: Ingredients like hydroquinone are often prescribed by dermatologists to lighten dark spots.
  • Sun protection: Daily sunscreen use is essential to prevent melasma from worsening.
  • Vitamin C as maintenance: After reducing the prominence of melasma with prescribed medications, vitamin C can be used to help maintain the improved skin tone.

Mistake #4: Not Choosing the Right Vitamin C Serum for Your Skin Type

Vitamin C Serums

Just like with any skincare product, you need to choose a vitamin C serum formulated for your specific skin type. Using a serum that's not suited for your skin can lead to irritation, breakouts, or simply ineffective results.

Formulation Considerations for Different Skin Types

  • Dry Skin: Avoid drying formulations.
  • Oily Skin: Avoid thick-based formulas that exacerbate oily skin.

Tailoring Your Vitamin C Choice to Your Skin

  • Oily Skin: Opt for a water-based serum.
  • Dry Skin: Use cream-based serums.
  • Sensitive Skin: Consider formulas with magnesium ascorbyl phosphate, which tends to be less irritating than other forms of Vitamin C.

Mistake #5: Incorrect Application: Rubbing on Palms

Are you rubbing the serum onto the palms of your hands?

The Wasted Effort

Applying serum to the hands can lead to product loss.

Just Pat Don't Rub

The best approach involves:

  1. Place a couple of drops onto the fingertip.
  2. Dab onto the areas needed.
  3. Use the fingertips to lightly massage into the skin.

Mistake #6: Applying to Red and Irritated Skin

Red and Irritated Skin

Applying Vitamin C serum to red irritated skin can cause more harm than good because the face is already vulnerable to other products. Applying any Vitamin C serum onto a face in this state can potentially do even more harm.

Do Not Use Serums on Irritated Skin

Vitamin C serums will need to be avoided if the face is already irritated and inflamed to avoid any possible harm.

Healed First

Always heal skin before applying Vitamin C to it to avoid extra redness, irritation, and damage to the skin. It is better to let the skin be normal and calm first.

Mistake #7: Salicylic Acid Overload

Salicylic Acid Overload

Using salicylic acid and glycolic acid alongside Vitamin C serums can be overly harsh and cause unwanted damage to the face.

Avoid Using This Combo

It is important to avoid the use of these products because the irritation caused will make the skin have dark spots, thus giving the skin a more dull look.

Using These Separately is Best

Although they should not be used together, both salicylic acid and Vitamin C are necessary for the face. However, it is better to use Vitamin C serum during the day and salicylic acid face wash for the face in the evening.

Mistake #8: Applying on Damp Skin

Damp Skin

Though it is usually better to apply things to a damp face for better absorption, this does not apply to every single product. Vitamin C serums do not perform the best if applied to the face while damp.

If There is No Irritation

If the skin does not have any irritation, it is possible to use a Vitamin C serum while it is damp.

Do Not Use on Sensitive Skin

If the skin is sensitive, do not use when the skin is damp. Instead, make sure that the skin is completely dry.

Mistake #9: Skipping Sunscreen

Sunscreen

A common mistake many people make is the lack of use of sunscreen because it is one of the most essential parts of a good skincare routine.

Results Will be Negated

By not using sunscreen, Vitamin C will be useless as the face is not being protected from harmful sunrays. As a result, it is better to apply sunscreen after you use a Vitamin C serum. This is especially important if you have dry skin.

Use Sunscreen

Ensure that you protect yourself by using sunscreen alongside Vitamin C.

Conclusion

Vitamin C is a valuable asset in your skincare regimen, offering brightening and antioxidant benefits. However, maximizing its potential requires mindful application and avoiding common pitfalls. By treating acne first, choosing the right concentration and formulation for your skin type, managing expectations for melasma, using a serum correctly, and incorporating sunscreen, you can unlock the true radiance of Vitamin C and achieve a healthy, glowing complexion.

Frequently Asked Questions

Q: Can Vitamin C cause breakouts?

While vitamin C itself doesn't directly cause breakouts, certain formulations or high concentrations can irritate sensitive or acne-prone skin, leading to potential breakouts.

Q: What is the best time of day to apply vitamin C serum?

Vitamin C is generally best applied in the morning, as its antioxidant properties can help protect your skin from environmental damage throughout the day.

Q: How long does it take to see results from vitamin C serum?

You may start noticing a brighter complexion within a few weeks of consistent use. However, significant improvements in hyperpigmentation and overall skin tone can take several months.

Q: Can I use vitamin C with other active ingredients?

It's generally safe to use vitamin C with hyaluronic acid and niacinamide. However, avoid using it simultaneously with AHAs/BHAs (like glycolic or salicylic acid) or retinoids, as this can increase irritation.

Q: How do I store my vitamin C serum to prevent oxidation?

Store your vitamin C serum in a cool, dark place, away from direct sunlight and heat. Ensure the bottle is tightly closed to minimize exposure to air, which can cause oxidation.

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